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腕表常见术语手册
时尚手表网 / 2008-05-09

Accuracy精度: 表示手表走时的准确程度Refers to a watch’s precision.钟与表是最古老的,也是最需讲究准确度的机械装置。一天(86,400秒)中偏离(快或慢)正确时间30秒的机芯(movement),在数学上,误差是0.035%。换句话说,准确度是99.965%。官方认证的天文台表(chronometers)必须误差低於0.005%的需求,18世纪的怀表,即使经精细的调校,一天的误差仍在半小时左右。

Adjustment (调校):
调校的项目有温度(temperature)、位置(position)与等时性(Isochronism)。高级钟表通常有冷、热、5方位与等时共8项调校手续。温度调校一般是指4℃、20℃与38℃。

Alarm Watch响闹表:
Incorporates a movement that releases an acoustic sound at a set time. Alarm watches generally have a second crown dedicated to the winding, setting, and release of the striking work, which is indicated by an additional center hand.在预设的时间到时会自动发出声响的怀表与腕表。闹铃表是人类所设计的机械时计中最早期的复杂表之一,16世纪就已出现。当今要找到一苹有闹表装置的古怀表很不易。至於现代的腕表不论是石英的、电子的、手上链或自动上链的很普遍。

Analog Watch (also spelled analogue): A watch that displays time indications by use of watch hands on a dial.(指针式时间显示)此术语用来表示∶「表的面盘以指针(hands)而非数字(digital)来显示时间」。「指针绕著面盘移动是传统显示时间的方式。近代腕表也有视窗数字型显示月份、星期与日期的,但是时与分仍保留指针式,电子表则大多是数字(digital)指示的。

Analog Quartz Watch:
An analog timepiece operating on a battery, or by solar power, regulated by a quartz crystal.

Annual calandar (年历表或日、月、星三历表):每逢小月(30天)和二月(是否闰年?)都必须动手调校日期的表。例如百达翡丽的Ref. 5035。

Anti-magnetic防磁: A watch whose movement is not affected by electromagnetic fields that influence two or more windings of the balance spring, causing them to stick together, thus accelerating the rate of the watch and disturbing its time-keeping accuracy.

Anti-reflection or Anti-reflective:
Superficial glass treatment that disperses reflected light.

Aperture孔径、视窗: Small dial opening in which certain indications are given, such as date and hour.在表的面盘上所开的孔或称为视窗。例如雅典(Ulysse Nardin)所生产的 Ludwig式万年历腕表,就有年份、月、星期与日期小视窗。
 
Appliqué: Numerals or symbols cut out of sheet metal and stuck or riveted to a dial.

Arbor轴、心轴:
Bearing element of a gear or balance whose pivots run in jewel holes or brass bushings.机芯运转构造的轮轴(axle),就是arbor(轴、心轴),不过为区分别起见,在平衡轮(balance)上的称为staff(轴杆),而在lever(马仔)上称为arbor(心轴)。

Art Deco (装饰的艺术):Art Deco是Art Decoration的检写,常被误译成「装置」(device)的艺术。其实他是一种流行於1920~1930年代的欧洲与美国之装饰风格,强调线条的几何图案。近代腕表卡地亚(Cartier)就有这种风格的设计。

Assembling: The process of fitting together the components of a movement.

Atmos Clock (空气钟): 既不需上链,也不需电池,而是利用大气温度差作为能源以供钟运行的动力。这就是空气钟。最著名的便是积家的产品。除平日的生产外,积家还为千禧年制作了特殊的款式,可以记录千年的运行。

Atmosphere大气压: 测量手表防水的单位Unit of measure that indicates a watch’s water resistance.
 
Atomic Watch原子表: The U.S. Government owns and operates the F-1 U.S. Atomic Clock, located in Boulder, Colorado. This clock is accurate to the second and will neither gain nor lose a second in 30 million years. The Atomic Clock sends out signals that can be picked up by watches equipped with the right type of crystal. These watches boast the most accurate time and never have to be reset.
 
Automatic自动上链Automatic Winding: 腕表的弹簧经由人体手臂的活动或加速运动,带动机芯内的自动盘环绕主轴转动而进行上链。自动盘经由合适的机械装置将这股能量传达给弹簧,以进行上链。A watch whose mainspring is wound by the movements or accelerations of the wearers arm. Also called a self-winding or kinetic watch. Abraham-Louis Perrelet invented the system in Switzerland in the 18th century. 配戴腕表的手在日常生活的动作可以带动表内的自动盘(rotor,或称为摆陀),界它的转动而旋紧主发条。此种上链方式即为自动上链。最早的自动上链时计是18世纪伯莱特(Abraham-Louis Perrelet)所发明的。至於时计史上的第一只自动腕表是英国人夏活(John Herwood)在1923年发明的。它的专利作品是一个会打摆的铊(swinging weight)来上链,1930年,劳力士引进以摆铊(rotor)为基础的上链系统,藉以主发条(mainspring)可以以一旋转方向来上紧。

Auto Repeat Timer: Permits the continuous operation of a countdown timer. Once the timer is set, it will begin to countdown to zero. It will beep a warning signal, return to the preset time, and start the countdown again until the stop button is pressed.
Aviator Watch航空表: A chronograph outfitted with a slide rule bezel. Chronographs feature a built-in stopwatch function. The slide rule bezel is an outer movable ring marked so that it can be turned for mathematical equations.
 

Balance摆轮: 在腕表内部,这是一个可在它的旋转主轴上振荡的环形活动组件。摆轮上连结的游丝带动它进行往返运动,将时间切割为完全相同的等分。每一回合往返运动 (所谓的滴-答) 称为摆频,1次摆频细分为2次振频。摆轮由一只受轮辐支撑的环形主体 (凸轮) 组成。摆轮和游丝是腕表的调速机构。An oscillating device that works with the balance spring to determine the frequency of a watch movement’s functioning and precision.

Balance Spring摆轮游丝: 极纤细的弹簧丝,一般将它视为机械腕表的“灵魂”所在。它的端点固定在摆轮和摆轮夹板上。由于它的优良弹性,摆轮因而得以进行规则的振荡。游丝的长度和摆轮的惯性共同决定一次摆频所需的时间。调整游丝的长度就能调校腕表的走时快慢。Component that determines a watch movement’s precision.

Barrel发条盒: 由一只齿轮和一个有盖园柱盒组成的整体。发条盒可自由地环绕条轴转动。它包含的一只主弹簧,以外端钩住发条盒,内端钩住条轴。发条盒和腕表传动轮系的第一只轮齿进行啮合。由于旋转缓慢,发条盒每小时的旋转弧度介于1/9和1/6转间。Cylindrical box that contains a watch’s mainspring.

Battery Life 电池寿命: Minimum period of time that a battery powers a watch. Battery life is counted from the moment a factory installs the battery.

Bearing: Part of the watch on which a pivot turns. In jeweled watches, the pivots are jeweled to reduce friction and wear.

Beveling: Treatment found in higher-grade watch movements in which the edges of levers, bridges, and other elements are beveled or edged by 45 degrees.

Bezel 表圈: 在表壳里用来覆盖面盘上的水晶玻璃之构造。Frame of a watch that surrounds the dial and crystal. The bezel may be integrated with the case middle or a separate element snapped or screwed onto the middle. There are various types of bezels:

• Compass Bezel: Bezel that can be used to fix an approximate direction by
  directing the hour hand toward the sun and turning the bezel so that the “S”
  mark is positioned halfway between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock position.

• Rotating Bezel Switch: Bezel that can be turned to reveal a different display on
  the watch.

• Rotating Elapsed-time Bezel: Graduated rotating bezel that tracks periods of
  time. Turns to align the zero on the bezel with the seconds or minute hand. The
  elapsed time can be read off the bezel.
Blue Hands 蓝钢指针:打造指针的精钢持续加热,直到表面氧化而逐渐成为深蓝色,之后再经淬火而转为浅蓝色。
 
Bottom Plate机板:承载钟表机芯内包含夹板等零件的装置。表盘一般固定于机板的下方。机板上穿满可镶嵌螺丝的筛孔,以及固定宝石轴承 (传动轮系就是绕此旋转) 的凹槽。

Bow(吊环):怀表或襟表上的还状构造,供表链挂上去的部分。

Bridge夹板: 金属部件。腕表内转动的零件中,最少有其中一个旋轴在这块金属部件上转动。夹板会以销子固定在机板上。夹板的种类一般随着它轴承或支撑零件的不同而有不同的名称,例如:发条盒夹板、中心轮夹板以及拨针轮夹板等等。Complementary part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. Structural element of the movement; sometimes called a cock or bar; supports the wheel train, balance, escapement, and barrel.
 

Cabochon: Any kind of gemstone polished and uncut; usually half-spherical shape that’s used mainly as an ornament on the winding crown or on certain elements of a watchcase. Cabochons may also be synthetic gemstones.

Calendar (annual)半万年历: 遵守除闰年2月29日以外的所有日期变更的记忆功能(人工调校)。Intermediate complication between a simple and perpetual calendar. Feature correctly displays all the months with 30 or 31 days, but must be manually adjusted in February.

Calendar (full)全日历: Displays month, date, and day of the week on the watch dial, but needs a manual correction at the end of any month with less than 31 days; generally combined with a moon phase.

Calendar (perpetual)万年历: 为了满足格列哥里历法的要求而设计的装置。钟表领域里指的万年历就是能在转换日期时,自动将30天的月份以及仅有28或29天的2月份列入考虑。它因此必须具备机械记忆,每48个月重复一次序列,以符合闰年的机制。Most complex complication related to the calendar feature. Indicates month, date, day, and leap year. Does not require manual corrections until the year 2100 (when the leap year will be ignored).

Calibre机芯号: 描述机芯类型和尺寸的技术术语。以数字、毫米或令(一种古老的长度单位,等于2.256毫米)表示。Originally the size and factory number of a given watch movement, this term now denotes a type of movement. When a calibre number is accompanied by the manufacturers mark, it serves as an indication of origin.

Carat克拉; 1. 黄金合金的成色单位。1克拉的合金中黄金纯金占总重的1/24。纯金为24克拉或千分之千;
18克拉合金等于千分之750;14克拉合金等于千分之583;12克拉合金则等于千分之500; 珍贵宝石的重量单位约等于0.205克。今天,这个单位已由米制克拉取代,每单位为0.200克。

Carousel: Device similar to the tourbillon, but driven by the third wheel, not the fourth.

Carriage or Tourbillon Carriage: Essential for the perfect balance of a watch’s entire system and stability. Today’s tourbillon carriages make one rotation per minute. Errors of rate in the vertical position are eliminated. With the popularity of transparent dials, carriages became aesthetic elements.
 
Case 表壳: 包含机械系统的腕表外壳,它可保护腕表内部的零件,避免灰尘、湿气以及撞击所造成的毁损。表壳是腕表所有审美研究的焦点。所谓的造型表壳是指传统圆形以外的卵形、方形、三角形、多角形等形状。Container that protects the watch movement from dust, damp, and shocks. Made up of three parts: middle, bezel, and back.

Case Back 底盖:在腕表的表壳结构里,底盖与表盘是两只位于上下相对位置的壳子。旋紧的底盖可确保最优化的防水性能。

Case Middle表壳中央部分:腕表表壳中央部分,用以容纳机芯。底盖和表圈固定在这个部分。

Center Second Hand: Also called a sweep seconds hand.

Center Wheel: It is a minute wheel.

Chime: Striking mechanism equipped with bells that may strike a tone or play a complete melody. A watch with this feature is also called a chiming watch.

Chapter Ring: Hour circle; the hour numerals arranged on a dial.

Chronograph计时表: 除持续显示时、分、秒以外,有测量较短时间段功能的复杂腕表,备有测量短时间计时功能的复杂腕表。Watch with a built-in stopwatch function or timer that can be started and stopped to time an event. Counters can register seconds, minutes, and hours. Can be started and stopped as desired. This is not the same as a stopwatch or chronometer.

Chronometer瑞士官方天文台认证腕表: 从词源上说,天文台表是一部测量时间的仪器。它的用途使它成为一只可显示秒数的精密计时器。天文台表的机芯由中立的官方机构在数日内,于手腕不同的部位和不同的温度下进行多次测试。仅有符合ISO 3159 质量认证体系规定的精确度标准的机械装置,才能获得天文台表官方证书。在瑞士,瑞士官方天文台检测机构 (COSC) 有资格颁发天文台表证书。受到ISO 3159 质量认证体系的启发,COSC也颁布一套可应用于石英机芯的检测规定。纵使一只计时码表可用来计时,但若未获得官方证书,就无法使用天文台表这个正式名称。
High-precision watch that has undergone a series of precision tests by an official institute. The requirements are very severe: a few seconds per day in the most unfavorable temperature conditions (for mechanical watches) and positions that are ordinarily encountered. A watch cannot be called a chronometer unless each individual piece has passed a series of tests and has been issued a running bulletin and chronometer certificate from an acknowledged Swiss control authority.

    • Clasps: There are a number of clasp types commonly used by the watch industry. The most common include:

    • Deployment Buckle (also known as a fold-over buckle): Three-folding closure   that secures two ends of a bracelet. When closed, the buckle covers the folding   mechanism.

    • Hook-lock: Composed of two separate elements, each fitting at either end of a   bracelet. One end hooks into the other to secure the bracelet on the wrist.

    • Jeweler’s Clasp: Allows the watch to lie flat.

    • Sliding Clasp: Similar to a hook-lock, but has a sliding mechanism that allows   for easy sizing by sliding up the band.

    • Twist-lock: Similar to a jeweler’s clasp, it’s used on ladies jewelry bracelets.

Cloisonné: Type of enamel work. Outlines are drawn with thin metal wires, and colored enamels fill the hollows formed. After oven firing, the surface is smoothed until the threads appear again; mainly used for dial decoration.

CO-AXIAL 同轴擒纵系统: 由G. DANIELS博士发明、经欧米茄发明的高度精准腕表擒纵系统。擒纵系统是利用低摩擦能量传送系统原理制造。

Corrector 调校装置:为特殊部件进行的手动调校功能。

Column Wheel: Part of a chronograph’s movements, it governs the functions of various levers and parts of the chronograph’s operation; very precise. Generally the preferred type of chronograph operation.

Complication复杂功能: 在机芯基础上附加的一些功能(如月相、动力储存、万年历、计时、陀飞轮等)Additional function to the basic watch movement (like moon phase, power reserve, GMT and full calendar, perpetual calendar, split seconds, chronograph, tourbillon device, minute repeater, etc.).

COSC 瑞士官方天文台: 瑞士天文台腕表的官方检测机构(瑞士官方天文台腕表检测管理局OFFICIAL SWISS CHRONOMETER TESTING INSTITUTE)。
 
Crown表冠: 对腕表进行手动控制(上链、设定时间或日期)的部件。Knob located on the outside of a watch case that’s used for winding the mainspring. Also used for setting the hands to the right time and for correcting calendar indications.
 

Date Watch 日历表: Watch indicating the month, date, and, sometimes, year and phases of the moon. (See Calendar Watch entries.)

Dial 表盘: 金属组件或其它组成,配备多样不同的显示,其中主要包含时、分和秒的显示等等。若以造型、装饰以及使用的材质来做表盘分类,款式更是变化万千,不胜枚举。Face of the watch on which time and other functions are displayed. Functions are given by means of numerals, divisions, or symbols of various types.

Diamond 钻石:钻石是最明亮、最坚硬的珍贵宝石。它的价值取决于重量、色泽、纯度以及切割方式等四项标准。钻石以克拉为计重单位,1克拉等于0.20公克。

Digital: Watch whose indications are displayed inside a window on the watch dial. There are two basic types of digital watches:

    • Liquid Crystal Display (LCD): Digital watch display showing time electronically   by means of a liquid in a thin layer between two transparent plates. All LCD   watches have quartz movements.

    • Light Emitting Diode (LED): Digital watch display showing time at the push of a button.

Direct-drive: Refers to a seconds hand that moves forward in little jerks, unlike the smoother movement of a sweep seconds hand. Trotteuse is the French term for a direct-drive seconds hand (especially a center seconds hand).

Diver’s Watch 潜水表: Watch that determines the wearers water submersion depth by measuring water pressure. Can display depth by either analog hands and a scale on the watch face, or through a digital display. Diver’s watches must meet certain critical standards regarding the effect of water on watch mechanisms. These standards include: watch’s water resistance, pressure resistance, underwater readability, anti-magnetic and anti-shock capabilities, rust resistance in salt water, the ability to withstand sudden temperature changes, etc. A diver’s watch must also include a rotating elapsed-time bezel.

Dual Time Zone 两地时间显示:一只配备第二时区时间的腕表 (通常称为“GMT”腕表), 可显示“第二时区时间“。最常见的情形是,以中央指针的方式或是以划分为1至24刻度的计时器上的指针读取第二时区时间。

Escape Wheel: Wheel that’s part of the escapement mechanism.

Escapement 擒纵机构: 置于传动轮系末端,齿轮和调速机构之间的装置。它的作用在于定期中断齿轮运转,并规律地将动力传输给摆轮。腕表主要的擒纵机构类型细分如下:回退式擒纵机构 (机轴或冠状)、镰钩擒纵机构 (柱体、镰钩、双镰钩)、自由擒纵机构 (擒纵叉、棘爪). 目前最受青睐的是配备叉式擒纵机构。Positioned between the train and the balance wheel, the escapement governs the rotation speed of a watch’s wheel-train wheels. Today, the most common type of escapement is the lever escapement.

Fly-back飞返计时: 航天领域里的特别功能,可在归零后按下计时码表指针的推动按钮而立刻重新计时。高速进行时,从秒针停止、归零到重新启动三道分开的操作程序浪费使用者很多时间。Function originally developed to meet the needs of pilots. This feature, combined with chronograph functions, allows a new measurement starting from zero by pressing down a single device. The fly-back is an additional center second hand that can remain superimposed on the other one as it moves. It can be stopped independently and then made to "fly back" to catch up with the other hand. It can be stopped and reset to zero together with the other hand.

Frame 框架:根据J.C. Nicolet 的定义,框架是装载腕表机芯所有零件的架子或框子。时钟的框架由两只机板组成,而腕表的框架仅含一只机板,用来支撑数个名为夹板的旋紧组件。在老式腕表内,框架由两只以4个柱轴相连的机板组成。

Frequency 振频: 每秒钟振子振动的次数,以赫兹(HZ)为计算单位,1赫兹=每秒振动1次─ 32780赫兹=每秒振动32780次(石英表的共同振频)。振子:腕表内作出规律震动的部件,保证时间的分界和测量(钟摆、游丝摆轮或石英)。摆动:一个振子的完整摆动(共两次振动)。振动:振子钟摆在两个端点之间的一次摆动。The number of cycles per time unit. It’s defined as the number of oscillations of a balance every two seconds or of its vibrations per second. Usually expressed as vibrations per hour.

Glass, Crystal 表镜: Thin plate of glass or transparent synthetic material that protects watch dials.

GMT 标准时间:"“地球”自转一周 (0°/360°) 时的完美起点与终点通过英国格林威治的本初子午线。创立于1675年的格林威治皇家天文台就坐落于这个同名城市里,并自1884年起,获选为全球标准时间的所在地,以测量航行计量中的经度。“Greenwich Mean Time”的缩写GMT原先用于航天业,在钟表领域里,它主要用来区别那些具备显示时间以外之其它功能的时计。(Greenwich Mean Time): A watch with GMT displays two or more time zones. GMT refers to solar time at the original site of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, England, which is located on the prime meridian.
Gnomon 日圭:最早期的计时仪器之一,日圭指针是一支垂直体,如棍棒、树木、石针、人体本身等。可根据它投射在地面上的阴影测定时间。日圭是日晷的始祖。
 
Gong: Flattened steel alloy bell struck by hammers to mark time by sounds. The gong is usually positioned along the circumference of a timepiece’s movement. Complex watches may have up to four gongs producing different notes or playing a simple melody.
 
Grande Sonnerie 大自鸣:一种可自动鸣响报时报刻的功能,而且经由推动按钮可重复小时、刻钟以及分钟的报时功能。
 
Guilloché - 格状饰纹: 以凿子手工雕琢或以机器打磨出彼此交织、交错的笔直或弯曲线条。如果雕刻工具是沿着垂直和水平方向移动,所获得的结果就称为格状饰纹;而若是雕刻的工具是沿着辐射状方向移动,所得的结果就是所谓的放射状饰纹。
 
Hallmark 纯度印记:锻压在金属上的标志,用以保证原产地、贵金属的成色以及特殊的生产工序。镌贴纯度印记的腕表机芯必须符合如日内瓦等钟表制造地区对质量所提出的官方标准。
 
Hammer锤: 由钢或铜材料制成,用于报时Steel or brass element used in watch movements provided with a repeater or alarm.
 
Hand Indicator 指针: 指示器的一种。通常由一只轻而薄的金属片制成,在划分刻度的表盘上行走。腕表一般具备3只指针,以显示时、分、秒。指针可切割成梨形、布尼克特形 (或称宝玑形)、剑形以及海豚形等变化万千的造型。Usually made of a thin, light piece of metal that moves over a watch dial. Watches usually have three hands showing the hours, minutes, and seconds. The hands can be manufactured out of brass, steel, or gold; available in different shapes.
 

INCABLOC: 防振标记This means that it’s shockproof.

Index 刻度:取代表盘上全部或部分数字的标记。

ISO Standards: Established in 1947, the ISO is an international organization currently comprised of 130 nations. They agree to set and uphold manufacturing standards for quality control purposes.

Jewel 珠宝: Precious stone used in movements as a bearing surface. The steel pivots of wheels in watch movements turn inside synthetic jewels (mostly rubies or sapphires) that have been lubricated with a drop of oil. The hardness of the jewel reduces wear to a minimum (for even over 50 to 100 years). Watch quality is determined mainly by the shape and finishing of the jewels, not by their number.
 
Jumping Hour 跳时:以数字窗口直接显示小时的功能,其原理是每60分钟以突然一跳的方式转换小时显示。

   
Karrusel 旋转擒纵机构:模拟陀飞轮装置的机构。然而不同的是,它的框架由第三齿轮 (又称过轮) 驱动。它由在伦敦执业的丹麦籍钟表师傅Bonniksen 所发明。
 
Latitude 纬度:由赤道起量度的角度,由赤道面、地球中心及被量度地方之三点组成。
 
Leap Year 闰年:恺撒大帝于公元前45年在儒略历 (又译为“犹利历法”) 中制定闰年机制,而当时在某些埃及和巴比伦的历法中就已存在这样的机制。闰年计有366天。
 
Longitude 经度:由一地点之子午线、地球中心及格林威治子午线所形成的角度。一地之经度由该地时间及起点时间之差距所定。准确的经度对于航空和航海同样重要。
 
Luminescence 发光:凡能发出明亮光芒者。氚是一种涂于腕表刻度及指针的发光物料,因而可于黑暗阅读时间。氚已替代镭及磷酸盐物料。

Luminova 夜光涂层 (发光物料):最新一代的发光原料,涂抹在指针和表盘上,可吸收白天的日光,而在夜晚释放出。如此一来,即可在缺乏光线的地方区别指针而阅读时间。早期使用镭质盐制造发光涂层,但由于镭盐的放射属性所造成的危险,目前以氚元素取代。近来,更以不会氧化且无放射性危险的Superluminova 超级夜光涂层取代。Luminova® 是Nemoto and Co Ltd.公司的注册商标。

Lug: Extension of the case middle by which a strap or bracelet is attached.
 
Luminescent: Materials that emit a luminous energy. Super-LumiNova and Lumibrite have virtually zero radioactivity. They’re used to make elements on a watch face visible in low light.
 

Main Plate Base: Plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mainspring: Driving spring of a movement that stores and transmits the power required by a watch to function.

Manual 手动上链: 形容一只机芯以手动的方式上链。使用者旋转上链表冠进行上链。Movement in which winding is performed by hand.

Markers: Elements that have been printed or applied to the dial. Used as reference points for the hands to indicate hours and minute intervals.

Mean Time: Refers to the mean time of the meridian of the Greenwich Observatory in Greenwich, England. Considered to be the universal meridian and is used as a standard of the civil time system. Mean time is counted from midnight to midnight.

Mechanical: Watch movement with a balance wheel.

Meridian 子午线:通过地球两极之虚拟圈线。一地之子午线指同样贯穿该地和两极之虚拟圆圈。通过格林威治的子午线被视为本初子午线。由此计算的时间即所谓的世界时 (TU 或 GMT) 。

Middle (of watchcase): Middle part of the case in which the movement is fitted.

Module: Self-contained mechanism added to a movement to provide an additional function.

Moon Phase 月相: 呈现月亮不同位相的机械显示装置。连续两次新月之间的间隔时间约为29天12小时44分2.8秒。一次朔望月可大致细分为4个月相:新月、上弦月、满月以及下弦月。Function that is usually combined with calendar-related features. A moon phase disc advances one tooth every 24 hours. While highly accurate, most watches with moon phases must be manually adjusted every two-and-a-half years to recover a lost day. Some timepieces are calculated so accurately, that the manual correction would be required only once a century.

Mother-of-pearl - 珍珠贝母:天然珍珠贝母是光彩幻变的物质,它覆盖于某些软体动物贝壳内面,特别用来制作表盘和表壳等。人造珍珠贝母则是以鱼类和动物角等的鳞片制成。珍珠贝母呈现乳白光泽的色彩。

Motion work 跨轮:在腕表内,置于表盘下方的传动轮系,可将分轮的转动传输给时针。

Movement 机芯: 组成钟表主要机构的整体, 可分为动力机芯和报时机芯。Entire mechanism of a watch or clock, including the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, and the regulating elements. Movements are divided into two large families: quartz and mechanical.
 
Nivarox: Trade name for a steel alloy that resists magnetization. Used for self-compensating balance springs.
 

Oscillation 摆频: 当摆锤或摆轮振荡时,它将经过两个极端点。先从一个极点摆荡至另一极点,而后返回原出发点,这样称为一次摆频。一般而言,摆轮每小时可完成9000次摆频,也就是18000次振频。
1次摆频 = 2 个振频。Rotation movement of a watch balance, formed by two vibrations.
Oscillating weight (rotor) 自动盘 (转陀):这是一只半圆形的重金属盘。来自手臂运动产生的能量,可使它在自动上链腕表表壳内自由地转动。此外,它的重量使它总是朝向铅直的方位。受到一个特殊装置驱使,它的转动将持续上紧发条。
 
Overcoil: This is known as the balance spring. 

Pallets - 擒纵叉(棘轮):钟表擒纵机构的一部分。一般使用精钢或黄铜材质。它的造型使人想起船锚。

Pinion: Has less teeth than a wheel; transmits the motive force to the wheel, combining with it and an arbor to form a gear. Pinion teeth are highly polished to reduce friction to a minimum. There are usually six to 14 pinion teeth.

Pivot: End of an arbor (the bearing element of a gear or balance) that turns on a jewel support. Their shape and size can influence friction and, as a result, the pivots of the balance staff are very thin and fragile, thus protected by a shockproof system.

Plated: A metal treated by a galvanizing process that applies a layer of gold or other precious metal on a brass or steel base.

Platinum 铂金: 贵重金属,具备高比重、抗氧化、耐腐蚀的特色,仅有塩酸和浓硝酸的混合液王水能够将它分解。一般用来打造珠宝以及腕表的表壳,而在化学和电器工业领域里的应用也相当频繁,例如生产坩埚和开关等。铂金和铱金制成的合金,则可用来制造国际标准计量器(铂铱合金)。

Plexiglas: A synthetic resin that can be used for watch crystal.

Poinçon de Genève 日内瓦印记: 由日内瓦钟表学校成立的一所监督机构镌贴在机芯上的特殊标志 (即日内瓦纹章)。仅有在质量和精密工序两方面满足一系列非常严格的标准的机芯才能获得这项殊荣。这个印记1886年时由日内瓦州创立。

Power Reserve 动力储存: 手表或仪器可以利用本身储存的能量(游丝、电池等)进行运作的时间长度。Duration in hours of the mainspring’s running time after it has achieved winding peak.

Power Reserve Indicator: Feature on a mechanical watch indicating how much longer a watch can be worn before it needs to be rewound. On a quartz watch, a battery reserve indicator signals that the battery is low.

Precision精度: Refers to a watch’s accuracy rate. Generally a precision watch is a chronometer with an accuracy standard certified by an official watch-rating bureau. A high-precision watch is a chronometer that has been certified by an observatory.

Pulsimeter Chronograph: Scale that shows the number of pulse beats per minute.

Pusher, Push-piece, or Push Button: Plunger with a head that projects from the center of a watchcase; operated by a finger to set time.

Quadrennial calendar 四周年历:能按大、小月份偏差而准确显示日历的机械装置,但每四年需要人为调整一次,因为闰年有二月廿九日。

Ratchet (Wheel): A toothed wheel held in place by a click and pressed down by a spring.

Regulating Elements: Sprung balance and the escapement (escape wheel, lever, and roller).

Regulator: Lengthens and shortens the active section of the balance spring, thus regulating the movement’s functioning. Also refers to a type of clock used for time comparisons in setting or regulating other timepieces.

Repeater Watch: Strikes the hours via a mechanism operated by a push-piece or bolt. There are various types of repeaters:

          • Quarter-repeater: Sounds a low note for the hours and a "ding-dong" for each of the quarters.
          • Five-minute Repeater: Strikes the hours, quarters, and five-minute periods after the quarter.
          • Minute-repeater: Strikes the hours, quarters, and minutes.
          • Grande Sonnerie (Grand Strike): Automatically strikes the hours and quarters, and will repeat when a push-piece is pressed down.
          • Chiming Repeater: Quarters are struck on three or four gongs of different pitch.

Resistor: A coil or conductor in electrical timepieces that resists electrical flow; measured in ohms.

Retrograde: Refers to watch hands that move on an arc scale (of 90 to 180) instead of making a revolution of 360 before starting a new measurement. Generally, retrograde hands are used to indicate month, date, or day in perpetual calendars, but there are also timepieces with retrograde hours, minutes, or seconds. A retrograde watch requires the insertion of a special mechanism into the basic movement.

Rotating bezel - 旋转表圈:装配腕表的环形外圈,可用于固定表玻璃。此外,旋转表圈还可记录一种现象所持续的时间长短等额外信息。单方向表圈仅能顺单一方向旋转,而这样的技术限制反而使它避免了所有可能发生的危险。例如:当人们想测量潜水的时间,所有的意外或错误操作只会减少原先根据空气储存量或减压时间所设定的时间限制,而使潜水者得以安全返回。

Rotor: Found in automatic winding mechanical movements, it is the part that, either via complete or partial revolutions, or the movement of the human arm, winds the mainspring.

Sapphire Crystal: 这是一层纤薄的玻璃片或具抗刮功能的透明合成产品,其特色在于保护腕表表盘。蓝宝石水晶玻璃是一种硬度仅次于钻石的原料,它以特优的抗力闻名。Made of synthetic sapphire, it is a transparent, shatter resistant, scratch-resistant cover to protect the face of the watch.

Screw-lock Crown 旋入式表冠: 自动锁紧表冠,表冠旋入表壳外圈,用于高度专业潜水腕表的防水功能。A crown that can be screwed into the case to make the watch watertight.

Second Time-zone Indicator: An additional dial that can be set to time in another zone.

Self-winding: This means it is automatic.

Shock Absorber: A resilient bearing designed to take up the shocks received by a watch’s balance staff; protects the fragile pivots from damage.

Shockproof or Shock-resistant: Refers to watches provided with shock absorber systems that help prevent damage from shocks to the balance pivots.

Skeleton Watch 镂空表: 在金属的抗力极限内,将机芯的机板和夹板钻孔镂空,而使腕表内的所有零件一目了然,例如:腕表佩戴者有时可透过镂空发条盒齿轮看见弹簧的摆动。A watch in which the case and various parts of the movement are of transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen.

Small Second 小秒针: 相对于大秒针或中央秒针的装置,以小计时器显示秒钟的小秒针通常位于6点钟的位置。A time display in which the second hand is placed inside a small subdial.

Solar or Light-powered Watches: Watches whose mechanisms are powered by light is stored via solar cells and placed within the watch. The light knocks loose electrons in the solar cell, thus creating electrical current. This current is then stored in the watch’s quartz battery, which powers the watch.

Split-second Hand: Comprising two hands; one a fly-back hand, the other a regular chronograph hand. When the chronograph is set, both hands move together. The fly-back hand can be stopped independently for the purpose of timing laps or finishing times.

STOP SECONDS (function) 秒针停顿(功能):游丝摆轮上的制动系统,在时间设定的情况下(表冠处于位置3),可对秒针进行同步控制。用于细微调校石英表(可与抑制功能相比)的电子运行步骤,利用热力感应器,可以更好地调整手表因温度变化而造成的误差。精确度:每月误差小于1秒。

Striking-work, Striking-mechanism: The automatic or hand-operated mechanism that strikes the hours, minutes, etc., or that rings an alarm bell.

Sweep Seconds Hand: Mounted in the center of the watch dial.

Tachometer or Tachymeter: The most common additional feature on chronographs. It is an instrument for measuring the speed of a moving object over a known distance.

Telemeter: Determines the distance of an object from the observer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel the distance. The dial markings are based on the distance that sound travels per second: 1,115 feet per second.

Third Wheel: The wheel positioned between the minutes and secon, ds wheels.

30-minute Recorder: The subdial on a chronograph that can time periods of up to 30-minute intervals.

Timer: Used for registering intervals of time without any indication of the time of day.

TIME ZONE (Function) 时区(功能):通过时针的独立机械机芯显示地方时间(或世界标准时间),而不影响腕表(分针和秒针)的精确度。
TIME ZONES 时区:地球表面被平均分割为24个时区,每个时区代表当地的时间。0时区与格林威治子午线重合,为世界标准时间(或格林威治标准时间GMT GREENWICH MEAN TIME)。

Tonneau: Refers to a particular watchcase shape that imitates the profile of a barrel.

Totalizer: Keeps track of elapsed time and displays it on a subdial or subdials on the watch face. Also refers to any counter on a watch, such as a stroke counter on a golf watch.

Tourbillon Device陀飞轮: 解决机械表调校难题的独具匠心设计。所有擒纵系统部件(擒纵轮、擒纵叉、棘爪叉和游丝摆轮)都被集中在一个活动的微型装置内,每分钟转动一圈。这种设计根除了手表不同部件因处于不同位置而造成的误差,保证机械表的最理想精准度。Invented in 1801 by A. L. Breguet to eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions. In a mechanical watch, it eliminates timekeeping errors caused by the slight differences in rates at which a watch runs in the horizontal and vertical positions. Rotates continuously at the rate of once per minute; The case makes one revolution per minute.

Train: All of the wheels between a movement’s barrel and its escapement.

Transmission Wheel: Another term for crown wheel.

TURNING BEZEL 旋转表圈:可移动刻度或标记的旋转表圈,以便用手表指针作为参考来进行计时。

Tuning-fork 音叉:一只具双分支的小型金属器具,上方镶嵌石英水晶。一块电磁铁维持水晶的震动,以驱动棘爪一个齿轮接着一个齿轮,以每秒300至720次的频率,推进主驱动轮。

12-hour Recorder (or Register): Subdial on a chronograph that can time periods of up to 12 hours.
 

Universal Time世界时: 世界日的二十四分之一开始于格林威治本初子午线的午夜。继华盛顿会议后,1884年建立的时区系统规定以世界时取代地区经度时。此一会议通过将地球分为二十四个时区,每一时区涵盖15经度,而且本初子午线就定在格林威治时区。直到1911年为止,法国一直偏爱以巴黎为子午线作为其时间划分基础。Referring to the mean solar time of the Greenwich Meridian, it is counted from noon to noon. Universal time is often confused with mean time.

Vibration 振频:摆动装置在两个极位置之间的活动。两个振频等于一次摆频。一般而言,腕表摆轮每秒有5次振频,即每小时来回摆动18000次。然而,有些更复杂的摆轮振频数更高,每小时甚至可达36000次。振频次数越高,越能确保腕表稳定运行。

Water Resistance 防水: 测量腕表防止水和湿气进入的能力。A watch constructed to prevent water or moisture from entering the watch. The watch’s ability to withstand splashes of water and the depth to which a watch can be worn underwater. Measured in atmospheres. There are various degrees of water resistance:

    •Water Resistant: Will withstand water splashes, but not immersion.

    •Water Tested to 50 Meters (165 feet): Can be worn in the shower or when swimming in shallow water.

    •Water Tested to 100 Meters (330 feet): Can be worn snorkeling or swimming.

    •Water Tested to 150 Meters (500 feet): Can be worn snorkeling.

    •Water Tested to 200 Meters (660 feet): Can be worn skindiving.

    •Diver’s to 150 Meters (500 feet): Meets ISO Standards and can be worn scuba diving.

    •Diver’s to 200 Meters (660 feet): Meets ISO Standards and can be worn scuba diving.

Water-resistant Case: A watchcase whose joints are made to prevent moisture from entering.

Wheel: A circular element that combines with an arbor and a pinion to make a gear; normally made of brass. The wheels between the barrel and the escapement make up the train.

Winding Operation: An operation that consists of tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can be accomplished by hand (by use of the crown) or automatically (by means of a rotor, which is caused to swing by the movements of the wearers arm).

Winding Stem: The watch element that transmits motion from the crown to the gears that directs the manual winding and setting of a watch.

Window: Refers to an aperture in the dial that allows the wearer to read the underlying indication such as the date or a second zone’s time or jumping hour.

World Time: This is an additional feature of watches provided with a GMT function. It displays the 24 time zones on the dial or the bezel with each zone identified by a city name, thus allowing instantaneous reading of the time in any country.
Zodiac: Refers to a circular belt with an ecliptic in the middle that contains the 12 constellations through which the sun appears to pass over the course of a year.
Zone: A small additional dial, or indicator, positioned off-center on the main dial. Used for the display of various functions such as seconds counters.


 

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